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Old 2009.04.01, 04:49 PM   #46
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^ What skyler said is correct. I had to configure the car that way to give it more corner speed in the 98mm configuration, but maintain very MR02-like qualities in the 94mm configuration. This is detailed in the MRCG manual which you can find either on the GSR website or even on the MRCG's product listing here at the Shop.
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Old 2009.04.03, 02:04 AM   #47
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Thanks for the help.

I just got my chassis kit pn version and started building. i have a few questions

-to make regular kyosho bodies fit do i have to shave off the excess where it clips on? because i cant put any body on now.
-with the pn version i did not get any tubing for the steering set up, so what could i use in place of it?
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Old 2009.04.03, 03:44 AM   #48
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you have to trim a part off the side clips,there are pics of this somewhere(im sure color knows)
1/10 antenna tubing fits over the screw in the servo horn
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Old 2009.04.03, 05:00 AM   #49
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body mounting

Quote:
Originally Posted by philly123 View Post
Thanks for the help.

I just got my chassis kit pn version and started building. i have a few questions

-to make regular kyosho bodies fit do i have to shave off the excess where it clips on? because i cant put any body on now.
-with the pn version i did not get any tubing for the steering set up, so what could i use in place of it?
Hi philly123, Just go to page 1 of this very thread. There are some very detailed pics of the modification you will have to perform. Have fun.
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Old 2009.04.03, 04:33 PM   #50
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Once again props to Skyler for his quick reply.

To make Autoscales fit on the MRCG you basically have to modify them like you would to fit them on the MA010, i.e. cut off the excess plastic that contacts the chassis brace. Once you've done that the Autoscale clips will slot right into the MRCG's own H-clips.

1/10, 1/12 antenna tubes fit, anything with a 3mm diameter (a spare disk damper post also works!) will be fine for the steering setup. Hope this helps.
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Old 2009.04.04, 03:48 AM   #51
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thanks for all the help will posts picks when built
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Old 2009.04.04, 04:01 AM   #52
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Bring it with you to Action tomorrow... I can help you with a few small details if you need.
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Old 2009.04.05, 01:45 AM   #53
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Well, here it is... just needs a 2.4 board that im waiting on
Couldnt make it to action because i went to opening day at jackson
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Old 2009.04.05, 04:29 AM   #54
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Looks good. Did you glue your batteries together? Just remember that battery movement can cause tweak in the chassis. When you glue them, just a small amount, and you have to make sure that the cells are flat and lined up properly. You can glue them while they are sitting in the chassis before you solder them into a pack. Use thick glue so it doesnt run onto the chassis...

How much room do you have in front of the servo? Try to see if you can get the servo horn as close to the tie rod adapter as you can. If the servo horn is too far away, it will flex more and bind a little. I used a ball joint link setup, just to get rid of slop, and increase durability (I had broken the delrin one on my prototype chassis at the PN regional). You may want to use an old t-plate to reinforce the servo horn, so it has less flex.
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Old 2009.04.05, 03:40 PM   #55
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Yes, i put the pack in the chassis and put apoxy in the creases and cleaned it up by putting alittle pressure and running my finger down the battery. As for the steering set up, I will probably change it out because i have the adapter that goes on the tie rod. the tubing is all the way in the tie rod adapter, the picture didnt show it idk why

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Old 2009.04.10, 01:23 AM   #56
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im having a problem with the tweak on the chassis. when i push down the front right of the car the rear left(side without the spur) comes up and its causing tweak. what can i do to fix this?? and i tried putting weight on that side and it only helped the slightest bit
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Old 2009.04.10, 04:44 PM   #57
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Hm... is your battery pack tweaked? Sounds silly, but because of the way the battery pack is integrated into chassis stiffness, it actually matters a little bit.

If that's not the problem, then loosening and re-tightening the flex plates (carefully, of course) should help. Is there anything stuck underneath the flex plates? Are they bent up or down when you look at them from the rear?

I also notice that if you drastically overtighten the motor mount it can cause tweak on one or two cars. Make it just tight enough to hold the motor still, like you would do on a normal motor mount to avoid stripping the motor can threads.


Let me know if this helps or not.
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Old 2009.04.10, 08:58 PM   #58
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tried what you recomended and a bunch of other things to; center spring, side springs using all hard to soft springs, shims on one and then both sides, taking out a lot of the suspension in the front... but as soon as i push down on the front the right wheel comes right off the ground... not sure what else i can do...?
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Old 2009.04.10, 09:12 PM   #59
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Could you post up some pictures for us of the problem? It's hard to imagine what's going on if nothing's helping. I have my car in front of me, and there is enough downtravel in the rear suspension that neither wheel should ever come off the ground.

Another thing to consider may be one of the front kingpins sticking. When you push down on the front left or front right corner of the car, the entire front end should dive down a bit.

And of course the final call is how the car drives... have you tried it out on the track yet/does it feel tweaked on the track?
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Old 2009.04.10, 09:21 PM   #60
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yea it slides out really easy on left turns...i will try some other things now and check what you said about the front suspension locking...if its still doing it ill take picks nd list my set up to see if we can figure it out because it is fustrating...because besides that the car handled extremely well and i could power hard through turns(only right turns)...i appreciate all the help color and i post back up later after i try some more things
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