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Old 2009.04.11, 01:37 AM   #61
skyler
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Tweaked MRCG

Hey philly123, Did you CA glue the edges of the chassis? I have ruined some micro chassis' by doing this. The heat from the CA curing causes them to warp.
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Old 2009.04.12, 01:52 PM   #62
philly123
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-i did not CA the chassis

-i think i found the problem...when i push down on one front side, the other does not dip at all causing the back to come up. when i push one side and with my other hand slightly push down the other, then the rear wheels are planted on both sides. i tried loosening up the screws alittle that hold the caster rod on top and the a arms on the bottom and it was good but once i tightened them back up it would still do it alittle...So what could i do about that? so far im running kyosho red and the medium shock limiters and the rear does not come up or barely comes up, but if i go with harder springs the other side dosent go down and the back begins to lift again...is that just a side affect of the car or is that fixable?...let me know and once again thanks for the help...im just happy i made some sort of progress with it tonight

Last edited by philly123; 2009.04.12 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 2009.04.12, 06:22 PM   #63
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That honestly sounds like a kingpin problem to me, I had the same symptoms with an old, worn-out pair of kingpins. I currently run PN white or yellow springs and my rear wheels stay planted on the ground always. Granted, I run a very low front ride height (doesn't leave too much room for the "push" test) but my rear wheels never leave the ground.

Again, if you have pictures of your front and rear suspension it would probably be helpful.
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Last edited by color01; 2009.04.12 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 2009.05.03, 10:47 PM   #64
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Here are a few pics of my build. I put the servo behind the rack for a more centralized weight ratio. The biggest addition to my car is a makeshift central pivot. It is simply a screw that was ground down to a point and a grub screw (that has a dimple in the face) that was threaded into the bottom plate. The suspension now pivots on these 2 parts instead of on an imaginary point somewhere between the 2 flex plates. The Grub screw and pointed screw can be adjusted to change droop as well of course.




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Old 2009.05.03, 11:22 PM   #65
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Start your OWN thread for your OWN car, lol... Looks excellent though!
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Old 2009.05.04, 01:52 PM   #66
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C'mon man...its called Research and Development. lol

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Old 2009.05.09, 02:13 AM   #67
philly123
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Thats not even his car
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Old 2009.06.05, 05:43 PM   #68
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If I have already converted the Futaba S3113 servo to work with a 2.4 board, how can I make it so I can hook up to a regular reciever?

Cody
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Old 2009.06.05, 05:51 PM   #69
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You'll need to put the servo control PCB back into the servo before you can hook it back up to a modular receiver.
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Old 2009.06.07, 12:55 AM   #70
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Is there any way, to use a 3010 am board and use the Futaba Servo?
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Old 2009.06.07, 02:07 AM   #71
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Yes, however I've forgotten how to do it.

It's similar to how you hooked up the servo to an ASF board but the pot wires have a different configuration. You *can*, however, play around with the wire configuration all you want and you won't kill the servo.

If I find the info I'll let you know, I haven't played with an AM Mini-Z in a reaaaally long time...
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Old 2009.06.07, 02:35 AM   #72
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It works the same as an AM board to its own pot...you just have to figure out which pole of the pot gets one wire and the other two poles get the other wire.
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Old 2009.06.07, 10:34 AM   #73
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Anyone try the Associated XPS ESC yet?

It seems as though it is as small as the Xray 180..

LMK,
Cody
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Old 2009.06.07, 08:38 PM   #74
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I'd have picked that one if I hadn't found a smoking deal on a Novak SPY. Decased the XRS has a very small footprint.
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Old 2009.06.25, 04:44 AM   #75
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Been a while, but I finally remembered to take a picture of my completed MRCG1.1.



I won't be getting too many chances to race this summer, but when I do, expect this car to make a good showing!
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