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Old 2009.01.27, 10:58 PM   #1
Jace1283
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Need Help. MR-02 Always Tweaked, Turning

i have a mr02 that turns normal/understeers when turned right but when i switch left the rear end kicks out or spins out. its so bad that if i turn left i can do a donut within a rcp track. if i do that turning right it just hits the wall. ive shimmed the diff even, i've turned down the steering with the helios. i've replaced MM from 98 to 94 and new tplate and high force clamp, alloy castor mounts, no change. disk damper, chassis, kyosho diff have always been the same. the car has been like this since i got it, i can still remember it doing it back in the day when i was running enzo test car. I'm thinkin maybe i have to shim something but im still guessing. help would be much appreciated and if you need info/pics just lemme know. setting up rcp again track tomorrow so i can test. thanks!

car setup:
kyosho 30/20 f/r
94 mm 2.4 mr-02 w/helios
2.0 deg alloy knucks
pn springs, cups, stainless pins
pn alloy .5 deg castor kit
pn med plate
pn LCG mm 94mm
disk damper
kyosho oil shock
kyosho diff w/titanium shaft
SC430 body
pn stock 70t

actually already had some uploaded, pics:

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Last edited by Jace1283; 2009.02.05 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 2009.01.27, 11:38 PM   #2
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Crappy tires? Binding bearings? Motor wire hitting the body? The SC430 is a pretty low shell and your motor wires are pretty "out there".

Try swapping left/right rear tires and see what happens? That sounds like a REALLY bad case of tweak, especially after you got an alu T-bar mount.
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Old 2009.01.28, 03:52 AM   #3
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Measure the distance on between tower bar and lower bar in the front. This should be the same on each side.

This is easy to get a little tweaked if you tighten one side first.

Check the front spring length. These should also be equal on each side.

Also switch the tires around as Color said.

When you have checked that the above is not the cause of the problem, you can start to shim your H plate. I typically use a thin plastic sheet on the motor mount side. The shim sets is to thick for me. I usually start with something around 0,03mm and go from there.

To get an idea of witch side you have to shim, place a 0,5 or 1 mm shim on one side, and see if the problem moves to the other side. Then you know witch side you have to adjust.

Another tip is to test without the body.
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Old 2009.01.28, 07:06 AM   #4
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Definately test without the body and see what happens.

Is there slight play from left to right on your diff? It could be too tight and may bind the bearing. Also put the diff in oppositely so it spins free of the motor and check the resistance.

Is the body bottoming out on the front tires?

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Old 2009.01.28, 07:48 AM   #5
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Check to see that the motor wire is rubbing the diff shaft. Also check that the diiff has a little lateral play in the motormount, and is not rubbing the bearings. Make sure that you have a good bearing in the right wheel and the wheel is not overtightened. Also try a new set of tires. Mini-z's tend to hook left because of the placement of the spur in the diff. Its typically push right/hook left.
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Old 2009.01.28, 09:02 AM   #6
JuniorWKR
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I used to run that body... the front tires hit the headlights.... ur gonna have to dremel them down from the inside...
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Old 2009.01.28, 12:29 PM   #7
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also check for hair or any kind of material between the front bearings and the knuckles. o
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Old 2009.01.28, 02:45 PM   #8
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Btw, are you running Kyosho 20 slicks in front? That would be a big no-no and an obvious cause for spinning out.
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Old 2009.01.28, 03:15 PM   #9
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sorry, tires are 30's up front 20's out back, kyoshos

this problem has occured to varying degrees on an enzo body, a 350z body(98mm), uhh the NSX only lasted a couple heats so not sure, and now the sc430 body. im guessing because of the 94mm with no offset that it is just more pronounced than it has been. will go with you guys' advice on this stuff, thank you. im finishing up the cleaning and will have my wide L setup soon, thanks
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Old 2009.01.28, 03:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace1283 View Post
sorry, tires are 30's up front 20's out back, kyoshos

this problem has occured to varying degrees on an enzo body, a 350z body(98mm), uhh the NSX only lasted a couple heats so not sure, and now the sc430 body. im guessing because of the 94mm with no offset that it is just more pronounced than it has been. will go with you guys' advice on this stuff, thank you. im finishing up the cleaning and will have my wide L setup soon, thanks
looks like a metric yard of droop in the front.... that will give you tons of steering and roll... the sc430 body is verry low @ the rear tires.... check the clearance @ the rear wheels to the body
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Old 2009.01.28, 03:55 PM   #11
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also check everything else that is mentioned above
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Old 2009.01.29, 02:57 PM   #12
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check for a tweaked t plate, or slightly widened t plate fastening holes (on the chassis!).

It's not uncommon for the mounting holes on the chassis to enlarge with age/use, causing unwanted left/right rear plate on the t plate.

PN racing makes an aluminum spacer that solves this. Basically secures to the bottm of the chassis using 4 screws instead of 2.

this thing: pnracing . us / new / news_image / 20090104-171559-2 . jpg?r=57

remove spaces in url.
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Old 2009.01.29, 06:59 PM   #13
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yeah i already have that too, its the high clamp force tplate mount, car pretty much has it all.

i got my track up and the car wasn't tooo bad. i did notice a clean spot on the right rear fender so the wheel must have been rubbing at some point. im using the pn med plate. the axle is already on the highest setting, my sc430 sits real low on the rear, just an inherent thing about the body. i may need to give a stiffer t-plate a shot.

the problem im having now is keeping the rear end planted well and getting rid of some of the twitchiness during acceleration. i also was running a mostly glossy damper plate with light oil. i sanded down the plate along with the little black things so they have a dull finish and did all my testing dry. i got some oil and will be putting it on... i may also go a little stiffer in front to med springs
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Old 2009.01.29, 07:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace1283 View Post
yeah i already have that too, its the high clamp force tplate mount, car pretty much has it all.

i got my track up and the car wasn't tooo bad. i did notice a clean spot on the right rear fender so the wheel must have been rubbing at some point. im using the pn med plate. the axle is already on the highest setting, my sc430 sits real low on the rear, just an inherent thing about the body. i may need to give a stiffer t-plate a shot.

the problem im having now is keeping the rear end planted well and getting rid of some of the twitchiness during acceleration. i also was running a mostly glossy t-plate with light oil. i sanded down the plate along with the little black things so they have a dull finish and did all my testing dry. i got some oil and will be putting it on... i may also go a little stiffer in front to med springs
did you try and reduce the amount of droop ??
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Old 2009.01.29, 08:28 PM   #15
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i put in medium springs (purple). my spring kit goes (soft)red/green/purple/white/yellow(hard). springs have a lot less droop up front. also since i put oil in the rear it's been stiffened up a tiny bit, putting a little harder springs in front toned the car down some. my steering range is now pretty even side to side, used to be very lopsided. car is making progress, im actually feeling pretty good about it. helios + 2.4 is a great help tuning
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