AD Band vs 2,4Ghz

[remy]

Hello,
I'd like to have your opinion about AD band. With the different problems of the ASF (reverse Tx quakity, etc...). Some drivers change 2,4 Ghz for AD Band.

What's your opinion ?

Best regards

[ZicZicZoom]

i personally dont know anyone who uses AD band everyone i know uses ASF and controllers for both are the same(Helio) just with a different module. i dont know if u can do this with AD band but the nice thing about ASF is that u can program your cars settings and all that stuff into the remote and it automatically pairs with the car. also ASF cars are more readily available.

i prefer ASF but thats just my take on it.

o and by the way ASF is another term for 2.4 GHz

[Tjay]

AD:

Response rate is much slower. It is like running a EX10 Helios vx EX1 UR but by no means a slower responding car/radio is bad. This is mini-z and everything is very twitchy. Having a slower responding tx/rx will result to consistent lap time. It may not be the fastest but it is consistent.

It has antenna... annoying and may cause severe eye injury. lol...

It shuts down sometimes.

I won't buy it if you plan on getting one but if you already have one and debating on getting an ASF, just keep this band for now and upgrade later. It's fine.

ASF:

fast response
no antenna
no glitch
slow reverse? you'll get use to it.

[remy]

I race with a PK (the old one not the black) and I'd like to change for à EX1 UR whath do you think about it compare to a Helios ?

Best regards

[Tjay]

Originally Posted by remy

I race with a PK (the old one not the black) and I'd like to change for à EX1 UR whath do you think about it compare to a Helios ?

Best regards

Wrong thread. PM ME.

[GIHOSU]

When I started racing the choices were AD or AM. My first MR-02 was built from parts. Chassis, AD board and everything else. I just took the time to set up my good old AD car again. It's a total Frankenstein setup. After tons of ASF time I was pleased at how the AD was behaving in some practice laps. The strongest impression I came away with was how much better the brakes felt in comparison to ASF. I drive with the EX-10 set for 60 brake as per KO, and I feel more brake control with AD at 100. I set all my ASF cars with full drag brake because I don't like how my cars brake too hard even at 60 just to get into reverse.The AD car didn't spin out when I needed to brake, it only told me that it needs more steering. I made some front end changes and I mounted a set of tires that I hope will help. More testing tomorrow night...

[cowboysir]

I actually sold off my ASF equipment and kept the AD cars as my stock and mod MR02's. I am a somewhat novice racer and felt very little difference in response time in AD versus ASF and really liked the quicker reverse (even after modifying the response time on my ASF board with my ICS cable.)

It's pretty much one of those preference things but with our small club I have no intereference issues and enjoy the track time I have with my AD cars.

[Felix2010]

Wow - cowboysir, so you don't run 2.4-ASF anymore at all? I am a big fan of the "old" AD-Band I wish I could say I had enough confidence in my AD cars' signal to run them more. But as it stands I just put up with the minuses of the ASF system (reverse is the biggie) for the security of the 2.4 signal.

[eztuner12]

Darn I sold my NIB AD Band because I read that the electronics suddenly will shut down and that the ASF was 100% better in all directions.
Now with time I am learning that ASF is extremely expensive. Not only you need a 2.4g PCB ($90) and module ($85) you will have to buy a wire and CD to program the PCB ($80) plus a new high end transmitter too ($200) and also get stacked FETs @ ($80/ 2x2top, 2x2bottom 4562s + Labor) for total awesome performance ASF and still reversing is a pain in the neck. Money wise we are talking @ the U$535s for an ASF the works not including the PCB chassis cover.

Now the AD is better?

Can the AD FM be FETs stack 2x3 4562s, what about the shut down issue, is there any steering glitching or shaking with AD FM Band?
Can someone give me an answer Please?????

If I have to buy an AD band, no problem only $125 Including PCB and module and $80 for FETs stacking all for @$200. in addition, issue free, simple as the AM but better performance, no reverse or programming issues as the ASF and save @$135 big saving in a toy after all.

I was on my way to acquire the ASF @ the $335s I do have an EX-10 Helios so I’ll save on the Tx.

Thxxx for the answer & broad help to me others perhaps.
CHEEEERS…..

[cowboysir]

Originally Posted by Felix2010

Wow - cowboysir, so you don't run 2.4-ASF anymore at all? I am a big fan of the "old" AD-Band I wish I could say I had enough confidence in my AD cars' signal to run them more. But as it stands I just put up with the minuses of the ASF system (reverse is the biggie) for the security of the 2.4 signal.

Being a hobbiest racer it didn't make sense to keep AD and ASF...since i didn't notice much difference in acceleration and servo transmit times and didn't appreiciate the reverse issue with ASF it was a no brainer.

The guy I sold the ASF gear to like it a lot though so it's definitely a preference thing.

[GIHOSU]

Originally Posted by eztuner12

Can the AD FM be FETs stack 2x3 4562s, what about the shut down issue, is there any steering glitching or shaking with AD FM Band?

-AD boards can be fetted.
-ASF shuts down too, it is for protection from heat if I am not mistaken. Gear mesh and choice will play a role here.
-AD has a 3 wire servo like ASF, I'm pretty sure it is digital too. I had a glitch on one track with AD because there was a light above track that we drove within inches of, the light/wiring seemed to be the problem. Otherwise, my AD has always been good and I have raced on 5 local tracks with it over the years. I keep cleaning RCP dust from my AD car, along with all my other Zs. Proper servo maintenance has been my secret to consistent steering.

The AD board architecture is similar to ASF. It has a programming port and the AD-ICS software is still available on the KO website. I still consider it an option.

I recently set up my AD car to experiment with different wheelbases and to see how well the stock LM motor mount could handle. With a 70T this thing screams. As I mentioned before, the brakes have better feel with AD. I'm now building the AD for Mod class racing, I want to see how my averages are in qualifying. If it runs well I'll drive it in a main.

[MikeL]

Originally Posted by eztuner12

Darn I sold my NIB AD Band because I read that the electronics suddenly will shut down and that the ASF was 100% better in all directions.
Now with time I am learning that ASF is extremely expensive. Not only you need a 2.4g PCB ($90) and module ($85) you will have to buy a wire and CD to program the PCB ($80) plus a new high end transmitter too ($200) and also get stacked FETs @ ($80/ 2x2top, 2x2bottom 4562s + Labor) for total awesome performance ASF and still reversing is a pain in the neck. Money wise we are talking @ the U$535s for an ASF the works not including the PCB chassis cover.

Now the AD is better?

Can the AD FM be FETs stack 2x3 4562s, what about the shut down issue, is there any steering glitching or shaking with AD FM Band?
Can someone give me an answer Please?????

If I have to buy an AD band, no problem only $125 Including PCB and module and $80 for FETs stacking all for @$200. in addition, issue free, simple as the AM but better performance, no reverse or programming issues as the ASF and save @$135 big saving in a toy after all.

I was on my way to acquire the ASF @ the $335s I do have an EX-10 Helios so I’ll save on the Tx.

Thxxx for the answer & broad help to me others perhaps.
CHEEEERS…..

You've kinda got this out of proporition. First off how are you planning to use the AD module without a radio that accepts them? so you wouldn't be buying a different radio than for 2.4, both are the same. You pay $80 for fets? are you crazy? all I can say is 8858s are DIRT cheap on digikey, the 3010's in the 2.4 board are also more than enough for almost any motor you can throw at it, many people just stack a 8858 ontop of a 3010 as well, much easier.

AD/AM cars have glitching problems, there are few that claim to never have problems, but hang out at the track and see the ones that DO have problems, I would have given up Z's a long time ago if 2.4 didn't come out. Reverse issues can be sorted, but in general it's not the instant reverse like AD, you learn to deal with it.

I've driven my 2.4 cars without reprogramming the ICS until yesterday, it helped the reverse issue, and I turned off the V internia, not much else will need to be changed, maybe the drive freq once in a while, def not something you NEED.

[eztuner12]

Hi GIHOSU,

Thax for the valuable info.
When you say, you are going into mod AD class racing, would that include stacking FET’s? If yes, which FET’s and stack amount are you planning to go with?
So the ASF will shut down too!!
Again thx...


Hi MikeL.
I think you should go over the # again, any way you put it, AD is less expensive and if most of the drivers are with ASF the FM frequency will not be an issue with AD, I’ll like to add.

In any way I’m saying AD is better than ASF, I am "asking" which is better, and if the great price difference to pay, worth it on the ASF. Indeed, I want the best buy for my dollar considering objectivity not vogue. If ASF is better and worth the $ diferance, definitly I will go ASF If I get same "performans" from the AD for less $, I'l go AD-FM.
I am not the type of person that will jump from a bridge if others do, I don’t buy things just because is the mode, I am little raison d'être (objective) I always keep in mind; this no more than a little plastic RC toy car, to play around & have a lot of fun. So a dollar I save, adollar I gain

I do have an EX-10 (-$200) so in my case I only have to consider PCB, module. Stack FET’s in line to run hard with 35T & 33T motors, without the risk of blowing a FET and ICS whish a see that at the end of the road is needed in rank to accomplish the best set-up for top performance or driving style compatibility adjustment.

Cheers to both

[TheRinger]

Originally Posted by eztuner12

Darn I sold my NIB AD Band because I read that the electronics suddenly will shut down and that the ASF was 100% better in all directions.
Now with time I am learning that ASF is extremely expensive. Not only you need a 2.4g PCB ($90) and module ($85) you will have to buy a wire and CD to program the PCB ($80) plus a new high end transmitter too ($200) and also get stacked FETs @ ($80/ 2x2top, 2x2bottom 4562s + Labor) for total awesome performance ASF and still reversing is a pain in the neck. Money wise we are talking @ the U$535s for an ASF the works not including the PCB chassis cover.

Now the AD is better?

Can the AD FM be FETs stack 2x3 4562s, what about the shut down issue, is there any steering glitching or shaking with AD FM Band?
Can someone give me an answer Please?????

If I have to buy an AD band, no problem only $125 Including PCB and module and $80 for FETs stacking all for @$200. in addition, issue free, simple as the AM but better performance, no reverse or programming issues as the ASF and save @$135 big saving in a toy after all.

I was on my way to acquire the ASF @ the $335s I do have an EX-10 Helios so I’ll save on the Tx.

Thxxx for the answer & broad help to me others perhaps.
CHEEEERS…..

I think it wouldn't hurt 2 have AD band in your collection. I've had shut down issues with my AD band car, but it always happened on a track bigger then 2 wide l's and during the winter when static electricity is at its worst. I dedicated my AD band chassis solely 2 HFAY racing and nothing more because the reverse is quicker then ASF and on a short coarse or mini 96 tracks, having a fast responding reverse is very helpful. I personally never had steering or glitching problems with my AD car. The FET arrangement is the same as ASF so stacking FETS will cost the same.

[eztuner12]

Originally Posted by TheRinger

I think it wouldn't hurt 2 have AD band in your collection. I've had shut down issues with my AD band car, but it always happened on a track bigger then 2 wide l's and during the winter when static electricity is at its worst. I dedicated my AD band chassis solely 2 HFAY racing and nothing more because the reverse is quicker then ASF and on a short coarse or mini 96 tracks, having a fast responding reverse is very helpful. I personally never had steering or glitching problems with my AD car. The FET arrangement is the same as ASF so stacking FETS will cost the same.

Thx so much for the helpful advice. I am still using my AM with few mods I performed on it, which eliminated for good any steering issues absolutely, and with the stacked 4562, 2x3 it is fast sufficient and handle very well my 37T & 35T motors. Having a Helios Tx with an AM is a great advantage in line to fine-tune your car steering & motor responds.
A couple of days back I assembled my mini96 along the extension kit and many other extras, creating a pretty big track with a 25 feet straightway and at minute 6 the car suddenly stop, with no response what so ever. I wait a few min, back to the track and again it stops functioning. When I turned the car @ I noticed some track rubber debris at the front end under chassis, so I figured it was static, the tires where wear out to the rim and the front end was rubbing on the track surface. Consequently, I removed the wheels; place the car, no body shell, in an antistatic bag. Fix up new set of wheels with new tires. Next day installed the wheels and start racing, with absolutely no issues at all. Therefore, I figured that the static shutting off scenario could happen to any mini –z with plastic chassis no matter if it is AD, AM or ASF
Again thxxxx,
Cheers