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Old 2010.02.20, 06:33 PM   #1
MantisMMA
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MantisWorx multi DDS system is ready to ship!

finally got the first round of these done and ready to ship. so let me explain what it is and how to use it
when trying out different setups i got tired of "stacking" plates and different shock mounts and i could rarely get it right where i wanted it, i dont care for the carbon plates mainly because they are high maintenence and lets be honest carbon is not the best material for tryin dampen a race car that gets real dirty. if you had a way to keep it clean it works great but the grime is harder than the carbon resin and it eats it away and there goes your consistency. fiberglass actually works better but not as cool looking so its not popular! so i tried aluminum and at first with the softer types (6061,7075) they were not really better than carbon once the polish wore off but when they were polished they were awesome! so tried regular anodize and it was better but would still wear too fast for me. so hard anodize was the next option and KABLAM!! that did the trick not only is it harder than any kind of grit you will pick up , it has unique surface qualities you really dont need much fluid if any to get perfect damping properties in most situations, and it is VERY consistent!
body mount: well not much to explain here we all know what happens if you get hit the wrong way and your body pops off....RACE OVER!! now even with body mounts it cuts the odds down alot but you can still get your body jacked crooked if hit the wrong way.
adjustable wheelbase within the same body: what this is for is that i know on occasion i get a wild hair and start messin with the WB and i like to try the same body with different wheel bases but the problem is that if you move the DDS the post also move and you have to drill even more holes in your body. the plates is designed for 94/96/98mm
shock mount: there are many shocks out there and i have them all covered and this feature is built into the plate, you can use any shock and any wheelbase with the same plate!!
Manufacturing: Ok guys/gals here is the deal, i had 100 of these things laser cut because i THOUGHT that it would not leave a burr and boy was i mistaken it leaves a HUGE burr on one side so on EVERY plate i personally hand sanded them down flat and polished each one before they went off to the anodizer!! and i also rounded off the inside/outside of the damping circle so you dont have to grind off the anodize to do it after purchase! for this reason i can only do 20 or so per batch because it wears the fingerprints off of my hands and i can only do 10 or so every few days!
pricing: they are 16.50 shipped to the continental US (will ship outside but the cost will obviously be higher)
here are some pix! enjoy and if anyone has questions feel free to ask via the thread or PM. PM me to order










those of you that already pre-order will be shipped out mon/tue
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Last edited by MantisMMA; 2010.02.20 at 06:43 PM. Reason: ooops
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Old 2010.02.20, 06:41 PM   #2
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almost forgot, the studs/nuts are nylon and there are a few reasons why. if you dont get your holes in the perfect position (which you would have to have an oval hole to do that) the nylon allows some flexibility in the location with putting stress on the body thus tweaking the car. if the studs are too long you can just cut them. i made the stud holes smaller than the studs so you can just firmly push the stud through and it will not go anywhere and will not twist. now the nuts can/will strip very easily (i send 4 with the kit) the idea is that you dont need to hold down the body , just keep it from coming off so you only tighten it til it touches the body and that is enough. i ahve been running the same studs and nuts for 5 weeks now and they still work perfect!
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Old 2010.02.20, 07:57 PM   #3
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Old 2010.02.24, 12:22 PM   #4
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all orders shipped out today, thanx!!
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Old 2010.02.24, 12:56 PM   #5
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Very nice! This will be great on my Lady-z! So i don't keep on putting tape on my car.
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Old 2010.02.26, 08:18 PM   #6
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Thanks mantis! I just got the part in today and it is very nice. Can I post a picture of my car w/ it to help promote sales?
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Old 2010.02.26, 09:10 PM   #7
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absolutely! glad ya like it!
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Old 2010.02.27, 08:39 AM   #8
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looks nice, i appreciate the work put into it but i'd rather use a piece of inconspicuous tape to keep the body in place before getting a new mount, adding body posts and putting holes in the body. it's just not for me, however i must add that i am not one of the top drivers anywhere thus having the body dislodge isn't a game changer for my race finish as i know it may be for those top tier drivers.

thank you for creating products that are both functional and thoughtful and real contributions to the hobby.
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Old 2010.02.28, 12:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b View Post
looks nice, i appreciate the work put into it but i'd rather use a piece of inconspicuous tape to keep the body in place before getting a new mount, adding body posts and putting holes in the body. it's just not for me, however i must add that i am not one of the top drivers anywhere thus having the body dislodge isn't a game changer for my race finish as i know it may be for those top tier drivers.

thank you for creating products that are both functional and thoughtful and real contributions to the hobby.
taping the body drastically changes the way the car handles in a bad way. you want the body to "float " on the chassis and the nylon post allow that!
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Old 2010.02.28, 07:44 AM   #10
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understood. i'm not in the position where i need that level of performance (would not change my position in our group) nor willing to go to such lengths to achieve that.

could you explain why you want the body to float vs. secured to the chassis? as much for my benefit as others me.
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Old 2010.02.28, 12:02 PM   #11
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believe it or not the chassis moves/flex's around quite a bit when you are racing, when you tape the body down it makes the car too stiff and will not transfer weight very well. before miniz i was a national level 1/32 slot car racer for about 5 years! i have seen 3 tenths on slot cars with a tightly screwed down chassis compared to a floated chassis and on mini z's i have also witnessed the same. i think that is one of the reasons the 350 z's perform so well! try it out and see what happens, run 5 minutes with and without tape and time your laps. even clipping the battery hold downs make a slight difference. and rememer Arch its not about the level that you are at its about making the car easier to drive so that you can get better. driving a well set up car will make you a better driver
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Last edited by MantisMMA; 2010.02.28 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 2010.02.28, 12:07 PM   #12
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i don't tape my body very often but i'd like to try your suggestion to see if i can sense what your describing.
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Old 2010.03.01, 12:25 AM   #13
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Quote:
even clipping the battery hold downs make a slight difference.
here's roger's chassis... i always thought that he was trying to shave off a couple of grams by cutting the battery clips... then read one of his posts... he mentions that by doing this, it somewhat makes the chassis less stiff/rigid... some other racers followed suit, and experience the same thing


for me, i remember my body popping off during extreme races, i think i did resort to taping them to the chassis a couple of times... eventually somebody thought of hot glue... great idea eh? so i ended up putting a dab of hot glue in the body clips...

by doing so, it took up some the loose space between the body clip and the chassis and it fit more snuggly (not too much play)...

however, with mantis' bolt on body system (bbs?) with the dds... i guess you'll never ever have to worry about a body poppin off...

Last edited by herman; 2010.03.01 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 2010.03.01, 12:38 PM   #14
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how is taping a body any different than a body with a tight fit?

am i clear in that the goal is a flexible chassis?
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Old 2010.03.01, 12:42 PM   #15
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The body can still flex more if it is a tight fit than if it is taped.
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