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Old 2010.12.02, 11:21 AM   #46
hrdrvr
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It took me a while to hit submit on that one. It was supposed to be under Juniors post

Sai, I don't think you could run those wheels (19mm right?) and tires at that ride height. It may fit, but I think it would be close enough that you would have issues. You look you have about 2mm+ under the knuckle, which I think would be too much. If you ran your ride height the same as mine, or higher, you could do it with those wheels and tires.
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Old 2010.12.02, 11:30 AM   #47
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You can always put the spring over the arm if ride height is too low. I used tires that thin on Mantis Group C wheels (18.5mm), you just have to adjust the ride height a little to make sure that there is clearance. You can shim over the knuckle or arm to increase clearance of the kingpin to the track. Shimming too much will increase preload and decrease travel, so take that in mind.

Once I assembled my front end, and got it to a point that I like, I havent touched it since
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Old 2010.12.02, 12:04 PM   #48
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Landon you are the first case that I have heard of having trouble with the clips. Were you running elevation changes at your track? If so, the PN Lower arm will give you a bit extra clearance, you might need this, given that the King Pin is not too low. I don't think your situation is too common though. Even at the Worlds, when I did not notice and I had my lower pin too low and it was dragging, the clip never came out. None of the team guys had trouble with the clips coming off either. I have not had a whole lot of comments on this issue, so if I was to guess It might just be either user error, or the track elevation changes.

Typically I set to have my king pin no lower than 1.5mm from the ground.

Tire diameter is very crucial for this set-up, that's why I don't recommend it for everyone. Typically on high grip tracks I will run a bigger diameter front wheel and smaller tire, and on lower grip tracks I run the smaller diameter wheel with a bigger tire. Overall, I do tend to keep my ride height in between 2.5 and 3.0mm from the ground.

Glue should not be necessary on the clip. If the clip is too loose, use another one. There are a couple of extra ones in a pack. If the clip is installed correctly, it should take far more force than what a Mini-Z Typically can generate to rip one off.

I'm not saying that a V2 can't or won't have these changes. It will just take a while for them to be released while the first generation sells out. If used properly though, the front is very consistent, needs very little maintenance and rarely needs to be touched.
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Old 2010.12.02, 01:29 PM   #49
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Reflex racer Johnny Themilis threw it on his car for the first time the other nite and threw it on the track for fri night racing... its pretty awesome... I really like it with the 02 kingpin upgrade... Nice Job CT and the rest of the gang at Reflex...
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Old 2010.12.02, 01:50 PM   #50
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From running larger scale offroad car for yers at the highest level.
Welder Silcone(from walmart) similar to shoe goo (it does not dry in the bottle like shoe goo) is the best adhesive for eclips.
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Old 2010.12.02, 03:05 PM   #51
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Well, like I said, I haven't given up yet. Hopefully using some different clips, and gluing them on will keep it form happening again.

I was running on a flat layout Cristian (well as flat as our layouts get Our track is a bit bumpier than most I travel too), but I originally had the problem after an impact with an apex (which is why I thought the body was dislodged). That particular apex has a wide 'dot' (curbing) on it that protrudes out pretty far. I am guessing that the curb got me. By riding all the way to the RCP rail I passed all the way over the dot, so it is possible that my outside king pin made it to the curb in a manner that hit it just right.

The forces at work with Mini-Z are minimal, but transferring the full momentum of the running car to a point the size of an e-clip would equal pretty substantial force on that e-clip.

Also, I would like to think I installed the e-clips right I do know its a possibility that I installed them wrong, and won't know unless I can verify correctly installed ones that repeat this dilemma....which I hope doesn't happen I would think they would have come off way earlier if they hadn't been put on right in the first place. I turned over 200 laps or more with them before this happened, and had multiple trips over the curbs.
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Old 2010.12.06, 07:16 AM   #52
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I have used this front end for a while and I run my cars on my personal track for 4-5 hours a day and got througha set of tires in a week and never had I had a clip pop off or even try to come off. I run my tires down to the point where it my pop off but never do. You may of hit something on your track to dislodge it. Check your trsck for any debris or high spots.
This front rocks and is super smooth. I also run the hardest spring with a slight pre load. The best part you can run high offsets and it will not be affected.
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Old 2010.12.06, 10:20 AM   #53
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I have used this front end for roughly 5 hours on track, and have not encountered any problems. It takes out a bit of slop, and the result is a very precise car.

As for tire diameter, I have found an overall diameter of 22 - 23mm to be my sweetspot.
The only downside is that is a bit harder to adjust preload than with the RR Extra long kingpins.
I would also like to have a few more spring sets available.

A really postive note is that the springs are very good. I measured two sets from different packages, and they were almost identical pair to pair, both length and rates. That is not the norm when it comes to Mini-Z springs!
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Old 2010.12.06, 02:03 PM   #54
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guys,
any advise on the shimming and preloading..?
i like to run my front end a little soft (PN Blue on Cantiliever Setup), thats why i cant pre-load them too much. but this mean i will have clearence problem if i run 19mm wheels, which i love. i know i can put the springs on top, but i like the way the reverse kingpin feels. less moving parts. i curently running 20mm whels with trued tires to 22.5mm. i just like the way smaller wheels drive.

any suggestion...?
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Old 2010.12.06, 02:29 PM   #55
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also,
i am curently using PN Low Down Knuckles no shim underneath. 0.8 above knuckle (below ball) and 0.3 shim at the top.
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Old 2010.12.06, 04:22 PM   #56
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i run a .3under the knuckle and a .5 on the top of the knuckle and a .2on top for the ride height or pre load. and silver springs. when I run the golds which I am running as of now I run no shim on the top of the ball. I am also using lowered pn knuckles.
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Old 2010.12.06, 04:57 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsstrike View Post
i run a .3under the knuckle and a .5 on the top of the knuckle and a .2on top for the ride height or pre load. and silver springs. when I run the golds which I am running as of now I run no shim on the top of the ball. I am also using lowered pn knuckles.
dvsstrike,
with this setup, you have enough ride height with 19mm wheels?
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Old 2010.12.06, 05:22 PM   #58
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With 3Racing 1d knuckles, I have no shim under the knuckle, 1mm above knuckle and nothing above the ball. This is with 18mm wheels, and 22mm outside diameter.
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Old 2010.12.06, 07:23 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unwritten View Post
dvsstrike,
with this setup, you have enough ride height with 19mm wheels?
i do have plenty. I forgot to mention is that i did change roll center on the top bar as it made the front end hop and want to roll over too much.
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Old 2010.12.06, 11:14 PM   #60
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Tim has it down perfectly. This is exactly how I run mine, with 19mm or 20mm wheels. The size of the wheel is not as important as the overall diameter. I use the smaller wheels on lower grip tracks where I need to run a taller front sidewall to get steering. On a high grip track,where you need smaller sidewalls, the 19mm wheel can get close to dragging on the ground if the tire gets too thin.
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