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Old 2015.05.03, 10:19 PM   #31
DMALMAD
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Thanks! I contacted the guy helping me out and he was pretty quick when it came to getting the chassis cut the first time but he is wrapped up in some larger scale stuff right now so it could be a little longer than I first expected. Anyways the build continues, right now I am trying to work in an inline battery solution but unless the car is struggling with rear grip when I get my esc in I will probably stick with the transverse pack.

On a side note, I know I have asked this a couple of times but does anyone think that using a completete rear mini-z pod would make this design any better? I have started modeling another version but unless someone chimes in I do not see the value in it despite the fact that I keep debating with myself whether it would be useful or not. Anyways, just thinking out loud here any feedback on the matter would be greatly appreciated
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Old 2015.05.04, 09:14 PM   #32
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Well I caught a break and the DMR Mini-zPC ver. 2 is being on its way! A small design change but I thought that I would throw up a picture of whats its going to look like. Had to trim a little material for wheel cleerance but even still there will be plenty of room to mount the x-power or atomic esc and maybe even one 18th scale esc that I might try if the price is right.
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Old 2015.05.05, 11:06 AM   #33
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I saw the whole thread, including pics, but still don't undestand how the T-bar substitute linking works. Can you show some pics of it with more detail, or even unmounted?

A very nice construction, by the way.
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Old 2015.05.05, 11:29 AM   #34
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Sure, I have attatched a cad pic of how it is sort of assembeled. Basically there is a standard 2.4mm radius (4.8mm diameter )pivot ball sitting in the capture block. It rotates smoothly but will not leave the block. This way the pod has smooth articulation and no slop which is different than the gimbal which has multiple axis of rotation on hingpins. The captured pivot ball allows full 360 degree movement unrestricted and also is less prone to slop because A. it has less moving parts and B. It has a larger surface area contact for where the rotation is occuring. The side links (not pictured) attatch the rear pod to the chassis and keeps the pod straight and restricts some rotation This ensures that the pod will be centered and will not flop around. The actual friction and suspension will come from the tri shock sytem on top. As the pod pivots it will engage the three different dampning systems. This is the same consept as the 12th scale cars except dumbed down a little so that I could make everything out of 3d printed parts. I could have gone all out and thrown up a complete 12th scale pod where the rear ride height is adjusted with either shims or a sliding mechanism but machinnig aluminum in small quantities would cost a fortune. For example one of the later pod revisions I tried designing that is simmilar to the top rebel 1/12th would have cost me nearly 350$ to get made! For my prototypes I have not included a side spring as the springs already sit on the trishocks but I may try adding some side springs later on.

Anyways hope the pic helps. I will try and take a video of the pod articulation later today.
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Last edited by DMALMAD; 2015.05.12 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 2015.05.11, 06:43 PM   #35
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Pretty much there just waiting on some basic hardware (2x10 screws) and some lock nuts. Also I can't decide on which motor to get. I want to try out the scorpion but its a pain to have to wait to get it from over seas. I will test with this chassis layout but am still waiting for my ver 2.0 chassis anyways let me know what you think and pardon the messy wires... that will change



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Old 2015.05.11, 07:18 PM   #36
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Looks interesting. Have you run it yet?
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Old 2015.05.11, 07:58 PM   #37
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Not yet Hopefully this Friday if I can get some body posts that are long enough
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Old 2015.05.12, 02:37 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMALMAD View Post
Pretty much there just waiting on some basic hardware (2x10 screws) and some lock nuts. Also I can't decide on which motor to get. I want to try out the scorpion but its a pain to have to wait to get it from over seas. I will test with this chassis layout but am still waiting for my ver 2.0 chassis anyways let me know what you think and pardon the messy wires... that will change
Looking good,

We (Lajf Racing, lajf.se) have run the ESC you have there and using the PNracing motors it will cog alot, when it gets going it works good. By adjusting the starting power, using the setting card for the ESC, to the max, it cogs a little less and it gets more drivable. We were using a 360mAh lipo cell
We have not been able to test the ESC with a different brand of motor.
We ran our test in our P28GT Lipo prototype chassi.

Keep us posted on your progress.
/Johnny
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Old 2015.05.12, 07:59 AM   #39
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Thanks for the heads up on the cogging. I will most likely use the pn motor too so we will see. when my other chassis comes I may end up buying either the atomic or x-power esc depending on this ones performance. Anyway I am very hopeful.
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Old 2015.05.12, 11:04 AM   #40
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Just a warning on the scorpion motor, the end cap tends to pop off.
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Old 2015.05.12, 09:39 PM   #41
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Is it serious and does it happen often or can just a dab of CA resolve it? Thanks for the heads up I will probably stick with the atomic or pn.
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Old 2015.05.13, 10:07 AM   #42
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It's serious when your car slows in a race because the motor can separates from the endbell. Would have to check on what type of glue would be appropriate for heat.
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Old 2015.05.14, 08:33 AM   #43
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Very nice work, i like a lot how it's coming out!
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Old 2015.05.14, 05:33 PM   #44
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Thx's I will be testing the car tomorrow if everything goes right and will post a video of it performance if it does well. All fingers crossed
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Old 2015.05.14, 08:42 PM   #45
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You should post the video even if it goes badly. Write up where you have difficulty and wait for the critiques come in to help out.
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