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Old 2015.12.30, 09:23 PM   #121
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919 its faster but only like 2 bucks more i think
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Old 2015.12.30, 10:45 PM   #122
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919 its faster but only like 2 bucks more i think
I found it. I tried this recently and stripped a few servos. I'm thinking now it was a the lipo to the board that caused the steering to have hulk power. I put the board back in the z chassis it came out of and now the steering doesn't work at all.

I guess the main reason I want to make this work is to use the asf board in my AMZ chassis. Right now I'm using the gogolap which is working quite well. I really like the speed and response you have in the video. I'd like that for the AMZ.

Thanks for sharing.

Kris
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Old 2016.01.06, 05:27 AM   #123
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I found it. I tried this recently and stripped a few servos. I'm thinking now it was a the lipo to the board that caused the steering to have hulk power. I put the board back in the z chassis it came out of and now the steering doesn't work at all.

I guess the main reason I want to make this work is to use the asf board in my AMZ chassis. Right now I'm using the gogolap which is working quite well. I really like the speed and response you have in the video. I'd like that for the AMZ.

Thanks for sharing.

Kris
I just tried putting my board back together in an old chassis and the steering still works so I am having trouble understanding what your issue is. I have found that this did not work well with the atomic servos but if you did it with the corona then there shouldn't be any problems unless you damaged the board when soldering. Sorry I am a little confused.

I will say this though that gogolap is complete garbage, I always had glitching with it and it would sometimes turn off randomly, and it wasn't only me experiencing this, at my track multiple people had issues with gogolap and other variants of asf receivers.
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Old 2016.01.06, 07:10 AM   #124
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I just tried putting my board back together in an old chassis and the steering still works so I am having trouble understanding what your issue is. I have found that this did not work well with the atomic servos but if you did it with the corona then there shouldn't be any problems unless you damaged the board when soldering. Sorry I am a little confused.

I will say this though that gogolap is complete garbage, I always had glitching with it and it would sometimes turn off randomly, and it wasn't only me experiencing this, at my track multiple people had issues with gogolap and other variants of asf receivers.
The board went bad. I think it was the 7 volts from the lipo.

Honestly the gogolap has been flawless for me. Haven't had any complaints from the gogolap here in our area. Sis have an issue with the servos in the un-assembled kits.
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Old 2016.01.06, 02:20 PM   #125
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It would only go bad if you reversed the polarity of the battery when you connected it to the board (soldered it in reverse) the lipo would not blow the board if it was a kyosho asf, if it was a pn board then yeah the lipo would blow it.
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Old 2016.01.06, 05:32 PM   #126
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It would only go bad if you reversed the polarity of the battery when you connected it to the board (soldered it in reverse) the lipo would not blow the board if it was a kyosho asf, if it was a pn board then yeah the lipo would blow it.
No that's not the case. It's hard to explain but I've swapped it to another chassis and same results. It's gone to the esc graveyard.

I'm still going to order that servo and give it another go. Thanks for sharing your info so far.

Kris
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Old 2016.05.07, 11:23 PM   #127
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So it has been a minute since the last update... but with school coming to a close for me I have been putting some more thought into getting the car faster. I had switched back to the MRX for a while and recently comparing the two under the same conditions I was a two tenths faster with the mrx than my car but most of this was due to the steering being a little eradict at times. I have found the main issue to come from the tweak in my old 02 aarm and also I found some binding in the steering. So to remedy this I ordered the new PN A-Arm along with the new Atomic BZ car which has that floating steering system. After doing a few measurements it looks like that system should be practically drop and play with the addition of drilling a couple of holes in the chassis. This coupled with the new lcg batteries I got in should more than make up the consitentcy and speed gap so stay tuned i guess...

Anyways, no pictures now but expect in a week or two some more information about how it turns out with the steering system in place. I also plan on using the atomic esc in it too so that should be fun to review but to the best of my knowledge the atomic esc is the best brushless esc available right now unless X-Power ever gets around to releasing the 2wd sensored system they have been posting pictures of on their social media page.

Also a disclamer, I know most of this stuff that I am talking about is old news but I am just getting back into the swing of things so its pretty new for me lol
*edit*
Page 6 instruction 7 is what I am talking about: http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/egr_manual/BZ-v1.pdf
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Old 2016.05.19, 01:00 AM   #128
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Proto Plastics UPDATE

So as I mentioned I have been working on some new stuff centered around a new battery that I have found. Well I am happy to say that it looks like I have successfully been able to lower everything by roughly 5mm. Hard to tell from the pictures but it is quite a significant reduction to the center of gravity. It also makes the car lighter and keeps the weight closer to the center... which are all good things. The other, more important improvement came at the cost of 7$. In the pictures if you notice the steering system is the same except for the balls that connect the tierods to the knuckles. Basically instead of having the tierod ends have the pivot ball with the hole in them so that they can slip through the knuckle, I have used the pivot ball that screws onto the knuckle from the bottom. Hard to explain but it is really simple to see in the picture. Also to do this you need to get the AMR Pivot ball Set. I was hesitant to do this a while ago because it was 7 bucks for a set in which I only need two tiny pieces. But I bit the bullet and got it and it has made a big difference in how smooth the steering is and it has also given me more steering angle and allowed me to get the right amount of ackerman. To do this like I said you simply need the pivot ball set and a 1.5mm tap and die to create threads on the knuckle. I think that this will account for the most signfigant improvement in performance but we will see. I will be testing everything later this week and will let you guys know how it goes.

Also, I test fitted the BZ floating steering system but it added too much weight and had to much slop/play and lastly it gave only a fraction of the steering throw so there wouldn't be a way to get enough steering no matter what compound tire I was running or how much camber I had.

I hope to test this with the brushless as that is the direction I see things going but until I see a brushless car actually be relevant I will be sticking with the current light weight brushed electronics package in there now.

For the batteries I am using simply paste this into the search bar in ebay:

100% Original 1 Pair JJRC H8C-10 7.4V 500mAh Li-po Battery for RC Quadcopter US

Pictures Finally:


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Old 2016.05.28, 01:29 AM   #129
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First test with the improvements in the books, car was already faster than my A-main winning MRX I did an 8.3 best lap during my winning drive and after the race I pulled out my car and the first and only battery pack I did an 8.2 and many 8.3. I think that there is still room for improvement, mostly in fine tuning the spring rates, and the fact that I was still using the tweaked front end which hampered it a lot. Overall I was pretty happy and if the new front end comes into the shop next week I will race that during the regular race day. For those of you who already have cars I am still touching up the rear end parts and fine tuning that stuff but I think the biggest difference is the battery and the front end to be honest. So I would recommend getting the new PN A-Arm upper mount (no need to buy the whole front end if you already have an a-arm) and the ball end kit from atomic and the new batteries. Just a heads up you may have to drill two new holes for the shock mount to fit the battery but it should fit.
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