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Old 2015.03.22, 04:25 PM   #16
jdmgoodies
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about how much time does it take to take a 1-1 scale rim and covert it into a mini-z size wheel with diff offsets? cause ive been curious to know how hard and time consuming it is. reason being is i used to have people in other countries design a website for a friend or me for pennies on the dollar literaly and the sites would take 100's of hours depending on skill of the person. i wouldnt mind paying someone in the phillipines or china to do all the time and work at a fraction of what it would cost in the usa
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Old 2015.03.22, 05:32 PM   #17
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It really depends on the person. Personally I couldn't say as I am not a profesional this is just something I do for fun. I am sure that you could find somebody to do the modeling work for you but I am not sure if there is really a market for the amount of time and money it would take to compile all the various types of wheels. Most people who are buying large amounts of rims are looking for race performance and not looks. That is why I personaly prefer the delrin dish rims. They don't look realistic but are durable and light weight. Honestly if this was something you really cared about you could get a free cad program and spend the time drafting the wheels yourself. It would be time consuming but like I always say a man on a mission is impossible to stop.
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Old 2015.03.22, 05:59 PM   #18
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he's 100% right. the tricky bit is the scale doesnt translate well to wheels and you typically loose much of the detail in order to maintain strength of the wheel. the material choice is equally limiting. aluminum has min. radius, etc. for end mills and 3d printing has limitations on resolution and thickness of the material you can print (not too thin).
simply put, there is a reason you don't find extensive aftermarket replica lines in mini-z wheels. it's expensive to do, and takes time. time = money in a business as well.

if you want to find out what the cost is, simply contact any of the shapeways creators and pay for a design to be made up for shapeways production.

we rarely ever see a chassis broken at the nose. on occasion you crack a screw point but in all my years i've seen maybe 3-4 break as Kris's car did. being a lesser cost entry product, your market is going to be less experienced drivers that will be subjecting the cars to an inordinate amount of abuse. i look forward to seeing how this prototype performs over time.
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Old 2015.03.22, 06:35 PM   #19
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how about cnc same amount of time? just diff machine and materials cost?
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Old 2015.03.22, 06:44 PM   #20
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check out the cost of Square, AVM and other high quality, high design wheels as a guestimate. they are not cheap.
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Old 2015.03.22, 06:57 PM   #21
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is it possible to 3d scan a kyosho mini-z wheel already made and make a 3d print of it and alter the offset if wanted?
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Old 2015.03.22, 09:09 PM   #22
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I am pretty sure but you would need a 3d scanner and a program to convert the file type. If all you were doing is adjusting offset that could probably be done with a free cad program but the cost of the scanner and other software probably is more expensive than getting some decent software and maybe paying for a semminar or crash course type class for computer aided drafting. Anyways lets try and get a little bit back on track, what do you guys think about 1s lipo in these things? Just an idea as an alternative version to save some space, slow the car down, and to add more reinforcements. I have a 750 1s lipo that is pretty small, do you think that would be enough for the electronics because I think at that voltage some sort of booster would be neccesary. Anyway just spitballing.
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Old 2015.03.23, 06:36 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmgoodies View Post
is it possible to 3d scan a kyosho mini-z wheel already made and make a 3d print of it and alter the offset if wanted?
No. Well at least not with off the shelf tech.

You have to draw it up.
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Old 2015.03.23, 06:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by jdmgoodies View Post
about how much time does it take to take a 1-1 scale rim and covert it into a mini-z size wheel with diff offsets? cause ive been curious to know how hard and time consuming it is. reason being is i used to have people in other countries design a website for a friend or me for pennies on the dollar literaly and the sites would take 100's of hours depending on skill of the person. i wouldnt mind paying someone in the phillipines or china to do all the time and work at a fraction of what it would cost in the usa
That's the missing link and the difference between consumer and manufacturer. I'm trying to do both at some point in my life but as mentioned by arch2b it's costly.

Im not afraid to spend a few bucks which is why I bought the printer and reached out to dmalmad based on some of the work he's posted. It's cool to see our ideas come to life.
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Old 2015.03.23, 11:40 AM   #25
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Been following this thread, best advice I can give...

Draw everything at first...
Challenge yourself to create everything and almost anything on your own in any type of software available! When the thought process becomes second nature as to your next steps in the modeling process you will then be allowed to concentrate on the things that really matter!

Make time...
It is tough to just rattle off parts that will work the first time. Take the time to see as many possible parameters as possible and make sure that the ones that will matter, will work! The parts that have existed and still do exist for these cars are mostly engineering masterpieces so you're up against a huge amount of expectation from possible customers. If your parts are off .020"... you'll hear about it! Fall in love with measuring things... and re-measuring things... and then when you think you've got it, go back and measure it again!

Printing parts... learn the tech...
I have had many conversations about this new wave of "Parts Printing"... and I despise how some just think it's the latest and greatest, Easy Bake oven for anything nowadays. Learn about the process involved, learn about the mechanics of it, know how your materials work. If you don't have a basic knowledge of it, you will lose possible advantages afforded to you!

Scanning isn't always what it seems...
Scanning can work but it's not always the best answer. At work I deal with full size passenger compartments and when we have used scan data or CCM data, it almost always has certain parameters to it that get us close to solutions but never to the exact answer. I now think of it as a tool to make sure that we are in the ballpark. Point clouds and surface data are great but can be extremely time consuming to utilize. Better to have the design done and then use the fancy stuff to double check your overall data.


That's really about it!
Keep innovating and keep pushing the limits! I am still struggling with some new designs lately and I'm waiting for the inspiration flame to get a bit brighter once again. I have some rough mounts designed but if they don't do at least one thing better than the competition out there, I won't finish them. Right now its a bummer that I can't get thinner sidewalls with Shapeways, but then again I wouldn't want weak areas in my parts. Give and take as always with certain designs, sometimes it's fun... sometimes it's a pain!

Side note: I'm very happy with my latest batch of wheel designs, very light, very flexible too but they do go right back to their original shape quite well. Wish I raced more so I could give a definitive answer on their true durability (drop test may be in order soon!).
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Old 2015.03.29, 03:30 PM   #26
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All great points imxlr8ed! It's nice right now to print, test, redraw etc...

I was able to install the Amazon ESC and clean up the wiring a bit. I took it to the club race yesterday and showed it off. Ran a couple laps but without a body I'm leery to give it any speed though it's pretty fast with the lipo battery.






I think I want to ditch the AAA printed slots and just leave a void large enough for a plastic generic AAA holder. It will just be a "bay" of sorts to put whatever battery configuration you want.

You can also see it's not level. Yet another detail to work out amongst other details to fine tune.

I'm going to make new tie rods out of strips of sheet aluminum. I've yet to fit a body but DMALMAD has sent a new one that has front and side mounts. I'm going to ask to have the rear separate and may even have it compatible with the mini-z T-plate and rear pod just for ease of use.

Thanks for all the feedback so far. This has been a fun project and a long time coming from commercial manufacturing to home design and manufacturing. A HUGE THANKS! to DMALMAD for putting my thoughts to design.
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