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Old 2016.01.12, 10:54 AM   #46
refsiul22
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AA v1

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Originally Posted by Mike Keely View Post
Does the old AA front end fit the 2.5 chassis or do you need to get the new 2.5 AA front end? I saw that they are all out of stock at PN. Is there a date when they should be back in stock?
Just finished the upgrade to pnr2.5w and left the AA v1 suspension. Already have the V2, but I want to test the new chassis effect first.

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Old 2016.01.12, 11:43 AM   #47
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Car balance

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Originally Posted by mleemor60 View Post
So, using an appropriate length of PN motor wire as a guideline and a dab or two of solder it will add an additional .5g to the overall weight of the package. How is the weight distribution front to rear with electronics(Kyosho board and servo installed) but less front suspension and rear pod/suspension?
Weight
My Kyosho mr03 chassis with batteries weighted: 153.5g (with alum top cover and PN weight T-bar.. as I raced it)
Upgraded to pnr2.5w chassis with batteries weighted: 144.7g (without top cover and PN T-bar obviously)

Weight distribution (balance)
Kyosho MR03 with batteries, no body
Front: 52% Rear: 48%

PNR2.5W with batteries, no body
Front: 51% Rear: 49%


Last edited by refsiul22; 2016.01.14 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 2016.01.14, 02:22 PM   #48
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That might explain why I have preferred to have added weight more towards the rear of the car. I am an ex- 1/10 off-road racer; we like to run them heavy in the rear . Our club raced last Monday and my top 5 lap times on the same layout worked out to .3 faster on a 7 second lap time track with the new chassis.
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Old 2016.06.04, 12:15 PM   #49
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Compatibility with PRO MHS board

FYI, the PRO MHS board is much longer than the ASF or FHS board. you must cut off the screw point from the servo motor cover to accommodate the board lying as flat as it can. the points on the board where you tap into power to the chassis are different as well.

ASF: 32mm
MHS: 43mm
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Old 2017.01.08, 11:33 AM   #50
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Assembly help and tips

After all this time I am finally attempting to put together a brushed PNR 2.5W chassis followed by a brushless one. Though I understand that it's a straight forward build, but just curious to know if anyone has come across problems or issues that I or anyone else need to know about.
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Old 2017.01.08, 11:49 AM   #51
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i would recommend opening up the servo wire pathway a hair, i was uncomfortable with how tight it pinched the wires. there is little to no room between the top cover and the side of the PCB to be clean and tight with the power wires to the PCB. I had to go over the PCB, absolutely no room to go below and up to pads.

i posted the info for the VE board, it's much longer than the brushed therefore doesn't sit perfectly flat.
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Old 2017.01.08, 01:10 PM   #52
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Have Kris print up a new top cover with more clearance.
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Old 2017.01.08, 08:09 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mleemor60 View Post
Have Kris print up a new top cover with more clearance.
Ha! Good call M. I could do it. I actually have a spare 2.5 chassis. I'll open it up this evening and compare its fitment to my own builds and adjust accordingly. Stay tuned...

Kris
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Old 2017.01.08, 08:25 PM   #54
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The Fairfax group is deep with assets. Why not utilize them?
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Old 2017.01.11, 08:35 AM   #55
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Is there any way one of you kind gentlemen could show me exactly what needs to be expanded/opened up on the chassis/top cover. I am waiting for my chassis to arrive and would like to get an idea of some of the things I need to prep before installing my electronics. Thank you in advance.
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Old 2017.01.14, 01:25 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Keely View Post
Thanks Brian. Our club is growing like crazy. We are up to about 27 guys that could show up at any time. We are out of room. It is a good problem to have though. One of the new guys is a top ranked 1/10th scale oval driver. He is looking to put together a mod car.
Hey Mike that's awesome man. Keep mini z alive. It'd be nice to see you guys come up this year. We run the smooth side RCP last night and it was a lot of fun fast laps
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Old 2017.01.17, 01:29 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b View Post
i would recommend opening up the servo wire pathway a hair, i was uncomfortable with how tight it pinched the wires. there is little to no room between the top cover and the side of the PCB to be clean and tight with the power wires to the PCB. I had to go over the PCB, absolutely no room to go below and up to pads.

i posted the info for the VE board, it's much longer than the brushed therefore doesn't sit perfectly flat.
I just finished my chassis install and went together very well and smoothly. I have not found a body that does not fit, yes you have to alter the clips a little. Tried 599xx, 458, 12c, lambo M, and the Mclaren F1 gtr.
I think PN may have made a slight running change because my servo wire pathway in the upper cover was very open with plenty of space for the servo wires with space to spare.
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Old 2017.02.21, 12:08 PM   #58
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I'm planning to transplant K brushed board from broken K chassis to PNR2.5 chassis soon. Any other tips or pics?
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Old 2017.02.21, 12:45 PM   #59
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You would be wise to tap all the screw holes for machine screws(2.5mm same as motor screws? and then go back over them with a bottoming tap to make sure you are threaded all the way down. Be extra careful with the holes on the top of the chassis where the piece that holds the servo motor down is secured. These two holes are very shallow and incredibly weak around the edges. If you start out with all tapped holes you can at least go back with a self tapping screw when the hole fails.
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Old 2017.02.21, 12:52 PM   #60
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i've built 4 or 5 of these already and have yet to have any real issues other than fine fitment tweaks already noted. Use quality screws, ease them in before to thread them. take care in putting them back in to reverse and seat the screw before driving them back in. the most common problem with stripping screw holes comes from over tightening and stabbing in a screw and forcing it in. treat it like a valuable machine and it's almost never a problem.
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