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Old 2017.03.07, 07:38 AM   #1
Traveler
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PN Racing MR-03 Alum Caster Upper Arms

Does anyone know what makes the difference between the 0, 1 and 2 degrees of camber in these arms? Is it the length of the arms from the pin to the ball, or is it the angle of the arm? The reason I ask is because on a couple of my 2 degree arms, one side has more camber than the other side. Wondering if I can bend one of the arms a little to get it to match the other one.

Thanks!

Last edited by Traveler; 2017.03.07 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 2017.03.07, 05:02 PM   #2
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Had to edit realizing afterwards you are asking a specific question which I do not know the answer to & leave it to someone who might.

As fars as making camber equal on both sides then best bet is still to ad/subtract shims either above or below knuckle(s) choosing either depending on existing ride height and droop settings.
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Old 2017.03.08, 06:56 AM   #3
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Thanks for trying to help! Maybe you can ask Philip or Grant next time you are at Kenon. Don't think they visit here much anymore.
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Old 2017.03.08, 07:34 PM   #4
Mike Keely
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If you keep the same amount of shims on both sides it should have the same amount of camber on both sides.

It is the length from the pivot pin to the kingpin ball. But you also need to look at the angle of the upper A arm. If the upper A arm is totally flat (square with the track) it will have less camber. If you notice the upper arm is angled down on the side of the spring it will have more camber while using the same upper A arm.

Also look for one of the spring to have more play between the arm and the spring on the side of the car that has more camber. This will also give you droop in the front suspension and that is one thing that I like very little of. I think that droop in the front end will let the car wander on the straightaways.

As the upper arm travels up on the kingpin side of the arm the kingpin gets pulled inwards towards the center of the car. As the kingpin gets pulled in it increases your camber. So in a way you have reactive camber as the suspension moves.

Something else to look for is the steering knuckles or the wheel bearings wearing out or getting more slop or play as they get older. Wear in either of them will increase you camber also.

Hope this helps.
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Old 2017.03.09, 01:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Keely View Post

Something else to look for is the steering knuckles or the wheel bearings wearing out or getting more slop or play as they get older. Wear in either of them will increase you camber also.
+1 for this. I find the Kyosho R246 knuckles wear out after a while and get sloppy, hence camber becomes inconsistent. I run a little droop on the front end of my cars to A) decrease the ride height and B) Dial in a little extra camber because I usually use 0 or 1 degree knuckles. The disadvantage of this is that the knuckle "floats" a little when the car is settled on it's suspension and you get slop. Shims help, but the knuckles just need to be replaced periodically.
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Old 2017.03.10, 09:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
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If you keep the same amount of shims on both sides it should have the same amount of camber on both sides.
That is the problem! To get the same camber, I need to shim more on one side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Keely View Post
It is the length from the pivot pin to the kingpin ball.
That is what I wanted to know. I put a 0 deg and 2 deg arm side by side and it was hard to see, but the 0 deg arm was a little longer from pin to ball than the 2 deg arm.

Guessing one of the 2 deg arms I have has a little more bend in it than the other. Wonder if there is an easy way to measure that and get them equal, instead of installing them on a car and shimming them equally.

Wonder if I can somehow use the Reflex Racing camber key tool to compare them.

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Hope this helps.
Thanks for your help!
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Old 2017.03.10, 03:15 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Traveler View Post

Wonder if I can somehow use the Reflex Racing camber key tool to compare them.



Thanks for your help!
I don't see that working since the RR key is for adjusting an arm mount and not the arms themselves.

I had a thought about shims and placing them on top of the knuckle to match arm angle while avoiding ride height issues but That'd likely create a spring rate imbalance with more preload on one side. Bummer....
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Old 2017.03.10, 03:34 PM   #8
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I've got the front end shimmed such that the camber is equal on both sides, but my OCPD compels me to get it to where I don't need different shimming on each side.

I wasn't thinking of using the Reflex key to adjust the arms, just as a jig to hold the arms so that I could see if one has a bigger bend in it. Another idea is to clamp both arms to a surface side by side and measuring from the other end of each arm down to the plane to see if there is a difference.

If I find a way to easily measure the difference in the arms, I'll post something here for others that may need to check theirs.
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