I would check the diffs. They have plastic gears and are known to strip. You can get the Harden replacement diff. If you are getting a screw driver make sure they are JIS drivers because they are not phillips screw heads.
I would check the diffs. They have plastic gears and are known to strip. You can get the Harden replacement diff. If you are getting a screw driver make sure they are JIS drivers because they are not phillips screw heads.
The slipper clutch is there to protect the drivetrain. Is there a way to loosen it so the gears don't get stripped?
I would check the diffs. They have plastic gears and are known to strip. You can get the Harden replacement diff.
The buggy already comes with the hard gear diff (metal spider gears and metal outdrives) installed as original equipment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper
The slipper clutch is there to protect the drivetrain. Is there a way to loosen it so the gears don't get stripped?
The slipper clutch consists of a 5-point star-like piece with rounded tips which fits into a ring with detents. The plastic star arms bend slightly and the star rotates into the next detent positions on the outer ring when the clutch needs to slip. Tension in the slipper clutch is loosened by snapping off an arm from the inner star, and increasing tension involves buying a new star piece with intact arms - they come in packs of 2.
The slipper comes from the factory with two arms already removed.
I searched the internet last night to get more info on the material of construction of the drivetrain gears as well as the slipper clutch and I couldn't find anything.
Judging by your definition of the slipper clutch, my clicking definitely sounds like it could be just that.
Look at the mesh between the pinion and spur gear. You would be surprised at the racket an infinitesimal piece of debris can make. Make sure that the area behind the teeth on the pinion isn't in contact with the spur. You might also check to be sure you are using the correct pitch pinion. 48 and not 64.
I used the stock pinion and spur. I think the only way the mesh could have gotten messed up is if I installed the motor plate the wrong way. I don't believe I have though.
It's extremely difficult to tell if the pinion and spur are aligned. I was worried the spur might contact the area of the pinion without teeth during the install. The car didn't make any noise from the start and the noise isn't constant so I don't think this is the issue, but it's possible.
I picked up my second Mini-Z. I ordered the MR-03S MR-03S Ferrari 458 Italia GT2 online. I couldn't pass it up for $115 shipped. The pictures are below. I'm sure my neighbors thought I was a weirdo for lying in the driveway taking pictures.
I was expecting this to be an RM, but I was quite please to see that it is an MM when I received it. Kyosho makes it extremely difficult, if not impossible to determine if the cars are MM or RM online.
It's quite a bit noisier than my MB-010. It also pulls quite a bit to the right during acceleration. Is that normal because of the offset diff?
I was also annoyed that the driver's side mirror was pointed sky high and it doesn't want to stay down like the passenger side mirror. I know...minor details.
Make sure the wheels are centered. On the radio there are buttons to trim the steering. Normally the car should track straight if the trim is correct. If the trim is correct and the problem persists check to see if there is any binding at any of the 4 wheels and if there is binding in the differential itself.
Ok since you have noticed a binding issue, first take the motor out and see if the rear axle spins freely on its own. If it does not take your rear wheels off and take your differential out and make sure the diff hub is not grindng against the motor pod. It may be that your wheel nuts are simply too tight. If your rear axle does spin freely then try opening up your diff, cleaning it out with some motor spray, and then putting some thin bushing / bearing oil in to make sure the interals are free to move without binding.
Do you have ball bearings installed? If you just have the stock bushings I would suggest some bearings and probably a ball diff. You can adjust the side to side play with the ball diff (how tight or loose it is on the pod) along with the amount of differential action. At the very least bearings are a must, at least on the axle and on the right side wheel.
I didn't realize the MR-03S came with bushings. My MB-010 came stock with bearings so I assumed all Mini-Zs did. I will order bearings right away. Is there a set that's better than the standard Kyosho option part? I think Kyosho's bearings are extremely overpriced and if I can find the sizes online I can just piece a kit together.
I am not a huge fan of ball diffs because I'm not the best at building or adjusting them. Are the Mini-Z ball diffs as high maintenance and sensitive to adjustment like the 1/10 version?
You can buy the pn bearing set, or bearings from companies like boca bearings. As for the ball diff it really is not a lot of maintenance unless you are racing competitively and even then I only rebuild it once a month. Ball diffs make adjustments easier and more precise . If you want to stick with a gear diff pn and atomic make aftermarket versions that are better and more adjustable than the stock unit. But IMO there is a reason 1/12 pan cars still use ball diffs.
[QUOTE=gctkaz;457907]The buggy already comes with the hard gear diff (metal spider gears and metal outdrives) installed as original equipment.
I have 2 buggies and they do not come with the hardened gear diff. My son broke the diff gears by jumping the car off a small ramp he made out of a shoe box. After it broke, it started making loud noised like how the OP described.
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